Few things seem likely to summon potential diners to a new restaurant more effectively than a banner announcing “unlimited meat,” much like the one hanging under the neon sign for Mikiya, a new shabu-shabu house in midtown. I saw it in action as two different men who exited the 51st Street station stopped on the sidewalk to inspect the Second Avenue storefront, looking longingly at a freezer display of vacuum-sealed primal cuts labeled “product of Japan.”
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